18 Dec 2008 -

Matt Dicey shows latest Mt Difficulty Wines

MT DIFFICULTY – THE 2007 PINOT NOIRS

Wednesday 19 November 2008

By Raymond Chan

As one of the major brands of Central Otago, it is of prime importance to retain a heart of philosophy that is based on the best that Central Otago can produce. Mt Difficulty does this by way of its single-vineyard wines that reflect the terroirs of the home growing sites on Felton Road in Bannockburn. Interestingly, though the ‘Roaring Meg’ brand of Mt Difficulty has grown with the use of grapes from outside the region, Mt Difficulty is coming back to a reliance on Central Otago fruit for this tier of wines. This is very commendable and demonstrates that Mt Difficulty is truly a producer that recognizes and values its roots.

Attendees at this event with winemaker Matt Dicey showing his latest wines, were treated to some superb taste sensations. The tasting looked at the current release of wines with previews of two single vineyard Pinot Noirs. The wines from the 2007 vintage are looking very smart, the low yields and small berries contributing to wines of real substance. This tasting featured the 2007 Pinot Noirs, which properly reflected the quality and style of this harvest. The quiet confidence of Matt Dicey and his team at Mt Difficulty backed with sound experience showed the 2008 wines in good light too. Here are my notes on the wines tasted:

Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris

Beginning the tasting, the Mt Difficulty Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (17.0+/20) with 13.0% alc and ‘bone dry’ was classical, restrained Sauvignon, pale in appearance with gentle gooseberry and herbal aromas and flavours, lifted with a touch of esters. The minerally notes were reminiscent of the Loire, and the wine is relatively subtle. Some experienced tasters found this rather excellent.

Then a pair of Pinot Gris, the Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris 2008 (17.5-/20) with 14.0% alc and <4 g/l rs, still with green hues, had good presence on the nose and palate, with light stonefruit, pears and a steely, minerally aspect. This should improve, putting on richness and breadth. The single vineyard Mt Difficulty ‘Mansons Farm’ Pinot Gris 2007 (18.5-/20) at 14.0% alc and 25 g/l rs was much fuller with complex honied, spice and nutty notes on a palate with weight, breadth and depth, no doubt from the ripe picking and benefits of some bottle age. Drinking well now and over the next year or two.

Riesling

This variety has become a star for Mt Difficulty and for Central Otago now. Three variants were presented by Matt, all from the 2008 vintage. First was the Mt Difficulty Dry Riesling 2008 (18.0+/20) at 12.5% alc and less than 4 g/l rs. Pale coloured, this was tight, steely and minerally with pure lime flavours on a dry and very fine textured palate with fresh and bracing acidity. The purity of this wine impressed many tasters and Matt stated this was his best release of this style to date. 160 cases made. The Mt Difficulty ‘Target Gully’ Riesling 2008 (18.5-/20) was a richer variant with 11.0% alc and 44 g/l rs. Again pale in appearance, this was redolent of florals and blossom with honey nuances. Medium sweet to sweet in style, this had a gorgeous richness with fine palate mouthfeel and an excellent balance of sweetness and freshness. Intriguing herb notes to the florals and aromatic fruit expression. 800 cases made. The Mt Difficulty ‘Long Gully’ Riesling 2008 (19.0+/20) was the sweetest of the trio at 10.5% alc, 90 g/l rs and a TA of >10 g/l. Honey, raisin and apricots indicating some botrytis, this had a wonderful balance of sweetness and richness with fresh acidity. The wine was luscious and richly rounded, yet with a firm core and real intensity and length. Absolutely delicious.

Chardonnay

Grape growers and winemakers are still working on Chardonnay in Central Otago. The cooler fruit expression, higher acid levels and flavour spectrum are not particularly suited to the broader, worked versions, and to attain a Chablis-style mooted to be a possible ideal, the winemaking may need to be more sensitive. Mt Difficulty is certainly in the camp of reducing winemaker artifact. The Mt Difficulty Chardonnay 2007 (18.5-/20) uses Clone 5, a low 15% new oak, low batonnage, but high solids fermentation and 17.5% MLF. It is no shrinking violet at 14.0% alc, but the integration and harmony works here. Mealy, nutty fruit in a modern style showing some complexing reductive hints, the barrel-ferment brings it all together.

Pinot Noir

The highlight flight of wines for the tasting. The benchmark wine, the Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5-/20) was medium deep in colour and a tight, restrained nose with bright berry fruits and mineral nuances along with some earthy complexities. Solid in weight, this had a restrained richness and rounded texture to the palate and excellent integration and balance of componentry. I felt the style was heading away from the typical, up-front, bright cherry fruited style that is seen in many wines of the region and towards a style with weight, texture and interest (read ‘complexity’).

The single vineyard Pinot Noir wines are made when the fruit is expressive of the site. There was no Target Gully wine in 2007. This label has been a favourite for a number of people, with its spice and licorice character. The two 2007 single vineyard wines presented were very different. The Mt Difficulty ‘Long Gully’ Pinot Noir 2007 (18.5/20), made from vines planted in 1992, was very bright with cherry and red berry fruits, florals and some oak lift on a fine-grained, supple palate. Its floral delicacy and silken textures were very attractive. Following was the Mt Difficulty ‘Pipeclay Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2007 (19.0+/20), made from vines planted in 1995. Powerful and dense with firm dark fruit characters, this was dense and meaty, full-bodied and solid, with dried herb complexities. This was the more preferred wine of the pair for the group of tasters.

As a finale to the tasting, we had the Mt Difficulty ‘Pipeclay Terrace’ Pinot Noir 2002 (18.5+/20). From a very hot and dry year, this showed full secondary and tertiary notes with its forest floor, game and chocolate characters. Soft and rich, this was still concentrated and full of tannins, which were rounding out. The feral and fecal notes that did not appeal to all. However, the wine was a great example of how this vintage has remained in good condition.