23 Nov 2011 - Raymond Chan

Lion's Wine Portfolio Roadshow

Mt Difficulty is one of the legends of Central Otago now, and tasting through Matt Dicey’s wines, one is not surprised. I feel that Matt is gradually building in greater mouthfeel into all of his releases and the steady progression he is doing it with is bringing his followers with him. I’d say he has European food-friendly textures and weight on his mind. The Roaring Meg Pinot Gris 2011 has been a runaway success for him, the off-dry and fruit forward style having immense attraction. The tighter, finer and drier Mt Difficulty Bannockburn Pinot Gris 2011 is a classier drop and its penetration and cut are startling. Showing remarkable subtleties and gentle richness and purity, the ‘Target Gully’ Riesling 2010 is sheer beauty. And surprisingly fine, yet clear-cut in varietal expression is the passionfruity Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc 2011, a sleek number indeed. The Central Otago Chardonnay 2008 looks to be a little more forward than the 2007, but it’s got all the fruit, oak and complex layers showing already. The finishing gem was the ‘Long Gully’ Pinot Noir 2009 that has put on more depth, weight and mouthfeel. Its cellaring ability seems a decade plus now. Matt says there will be the three single-vineyard Pinot Noir releases again with the 2010s.

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