16 Jun 2011 - www.geoffkellywinereviews.co.nz

Mt Difficulty Chardonnay 2004

Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand: 13.5%; screwcap; hand-harvested, 100% BF with high solids in old more than new French oak; weekly to fortnightly stirring on gross lees to build palate; <2 g/L RS

Lemon-straw, deeper than the other chardonnays in this tasting – reasonably. Bouquet is fragrant, maturing nicely, clearly yellow-fleshed stonefruits, some toasted-almond mealyness, attractive. Palate is a little more abrupt, the toastyness of the barrel component rather much as if one or two of the almonds were scorched, some stonefruit, and total acid a bit noticeable. These details went unnoticed in the context winemaker Matt Dicey presented the wine, with an alternation of smoked salmon and roast pork, which made the wine seem magnificent. Useful wine reviews must be more clinical, however. At a peak, will hold 2 – 4 years. GK 06/11

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